Having spent over 25 years in the beauty industry, specializing in clean skincare, you can probably imagine the amount of ingredients and products I've learned about, and used. The multitude of choices can be overwhelming, especially for consumers as they get bombarded with messaging from brands, each claiming their product is the best and most effective.
So after years of testing, consulting with clients and brands, I narrowed down my top three oils of all time, tested one blend after the other, & finally landed on a formulation comprised these three oils just right.
The biggest drivers for me, in formulating this blend, were the fact that, for two decades, I've struggled with sensitive / dry skin , aggravated by Perioral Dermatitis. I am also turning 45 this year. So I wanted a multi-tasking treatment; one that will strengthen and repair my lipid barrier, while addressing wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation and protecting my skin from free-radicals. I also wanted the treatment to be suitable for day and night, and to be hyper clean, irritant-free and 100% natural. I know, It's a lot to ask! But When I set out to launch The Beauty Doctrine, my primary goal was to simplify clean beauty for consumers, including myself, offering simple, high performing products that are suitable for the most sensitive skin types.
What are the most effective oils?
Jojoba sits at number one when it comes to lipid barrier repair. Most of us have a weakened skin surface due to environmental aggressors causing free radical damage in our skin. Other factors that negatively impact our skin's acid mantel is the use of products with fragrances, preservatives and essential oils; not to mention aggressive products such as exfoliants, facial brushes and chemical peels.
So what is the relationship between Jojoba and the lipid barrier? Well, it is nature's closest oil to the composition of human skin. Our lipid barrier is comprised of building block called Ceramides, which make up 94% of Jojoba's composition. This makes it the most beneficial oil for strengthening skin's surface. And that's just the start! This hearty perennial is no joke. It grows and thrives in harsh desert climates that most living things wouldn't be able to survive. This makes it a rather powerful ingredient for healing & protecting the skin from free radicals.
Here are some additional benefits of Jojoba oil:
- Contains Vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from premature aging by reducing free radical damage.
- Helps increase collagen synthesis leading to firmer skin.
- Speeds up wound healing by binding skin cells together.
- Acts as a non-comedogenic occlusive wax maintaining skin hydration. This in turn reduces fine lines and wrinkle.
- Balances oil production by maintaining just the right levels of moisture in the skin. Hence oil gland do not over- produce oils.
- Helps soothe eczema, psoriasis, personal dermatitis, and other skin conditions related to sensitivity or allergies.
- Helps soothe sunburn according to a study. It also helps protect from UV damage when combined with antioxidants. the heart thing is that in itself, it is quite rich in vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant.
- Jojoba has anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, making it ideal for acne prone skin.
- Increases skin barrier function.
2- Rosehip oil
Unlike Rosewater which is derived from rose petals, Rosehip Seed Oil comes from the actual fruit of the rose plant. Many ancient civilizations including the Mayans, Egyptians and Native Americans, used this powerful functional oil for its medicinal and healing properties. It is no doubt the most powerful anti-aging and brightening oil I know.
Rich in Plolyphenols, Folate, Phenolic compounds, fatty acids, and vitamins A, C, and E, Rose hip oil is considered a functional oil with therapeutic benefits, including immunomodulation, anti-cancer, anti-diabetic, cardio-protective and neuroprotective effects. It's been studied quite a bit in recent years for its skincare benefits, and has been found to be a great alternative to many synthetic and irritating actives such as Retinol and L-ascorbic Acid.
Let's review some of its key benefits;
- A 2013 study found that Rosehip oil is effective in both preventing and reducing stretch marks' formation.
- It aids in reducing the appearance of scars. A study was conducted on post surgical patients, showed that when applied twice a day, Rosehip Oil improved the look and feel of scars dramatically, with consistent use; twice a day for 12 weeks.
- Rosehip oil contains Trans-Retinoic Acid which converts into Retinol (aka Vitamin A), which is the gold standard for combatting acne and increasing cellular turnover.
- The high amount of Vitamin E in Rosehip oil provides anti-inflammatory properties for all sensitive skin types including eczema, rosacea and psoriasis.
- Rosehip Seed oil's trans-retinoic content aids in repairing cellular damage and combating free radicals. Both are contributors to cell death and aging.
- Holds skin regeneration properties promoting repair and increased cellular turnover.
- Protects against sun damage with vitamins A, C and E. The moisturizing properties from the essential fatty acids make the skin more resilient and able to withstand sun exposure better.
- Its high Vitamin C content is proven to brighten, even skin tone and reduce pigmentation.
- Having a high amount of essential fatty acids makes this oil the ideal moisturizer for all skin types without clogging pores.
3- Hemp Seed Oil
Hemp Seed oil is extracted from cold-pressed Hemp Seeds, similar to olive oil. Not to be confused with the cannabis plant, hemp seed does not contain THC, the component that makes you high.
Hemp Seed oil contains the perfect ratio of 3.1 with regard to its essential fatty acid contend of Omega 6- & Omega 3. Research found it to be beneficial for a multitude of health issues, including pain management & heart health. This light-weight oil packs tremendous benefits for the skin. Here are a few:
- Hemp Seed oil is rich in Gamma-linoleic acid (GLA), which research has found to be highly anti-inflammatory, helping with conditions such as atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis and other skin conditions.
- Moderates oil production, moisturizing and balancing even the oiliest skin types without clogging pores.
- Mitigates the rash effects of Retinoids and other skincare actives, making it great to pair with your dermatologist prescribed skincare.
- Ideal for acneic skin types.
- Locks in hydration while aiding in lipid barrier repair.
- A great post-op oil to reduce irritation and speed up healing.
- Rich in trace minerals, antioxidants & vitamins A & E, making this gem a great booster for the skin, fighting off free radicals and reducing fine line and wrinkles.
- Reduces redness and irritation.
What's the best natural oil serum for skin repair?
I developed The Beauty Doctrine Barrier Repair Serum with one goal in mind: simplify and amplify! A simple formulation that includes concentrated actives with amplified benefits, for all skin types and concerns. Combining Rosehip, Hemp and Jojoba oils delivers soothing, anti-aging, moisturizing and balancing benefits without irritation, while strengthening the skin barrier function, making the skin more resilient and supple.
The Barrier Repair Serum is suitable for all skin types from acne prone and oily to dry and sensitive. I made sure to keep it allergen-free, gluten-free, irritant-free and toxin-free.
How to use The Beauty Doctrine Barrier Repair Serum?
The serum can be incorporated into every skincare routine, following the water phase. It is crucial that after you cleanse, you saturate your skin with a blend of a hyaluronic acid serum and a mineral water spray. If oily, dispense 3-4 drops of the Barrier Repair Serum and apply all over the face. If dry, use the 1/2 a dropper's content to create more of an occlusive barrier to seal hydration in the skin. Then follow with a face balm in the evening or sunscreen in the morning. Voila!
Other uses of The Beauty Doctrine Barrier Repair Serum:
- This is the perfect oil to prep the skin for a Gua Sha massage.
- Use after LED Light Therapy or micro-current treatments to amplify the results.
- Use following peels and cosmetic procedures to speed up healing.
- Use to improve the look of acne scars and reduce pigmentation.
- Use to improve the look of scars and stretch marks.
- Great for scalp massage to aid in hair growth.
- Idea to pair with Retinoids to minimize the potential for irritation.
- Can be used as a beard oil.
Good to know:
- Oils oxidize quickly when exposed to heat and light. It is always best to purchase oils in a dark container , and store them in away from heat.
- Oils are versatile. You don't need a different one for each part of your body. The Beauty Doctrine Barrier Repair Serum can be used for face, lips, hair, nails, cuticles, stretch marks, or as a carrier oil for your essential oil blends.
- Oils do not cause breakouts. But when you apply any moisturizing substance onto your face, pollution and impurities get attached to it throughout the day. So it is crucial to double-cleanse at night. Often, when you experience overnight breakouts, that may not be from the skincare itself, but rather the accumulation of toxins that attach to it, clogging pores.
I hope that this 100% natural, clean, simple, yet potent serum; helps simplify your skincare routine, saving you precious time and money!
Be well. Be safe. Be beautiful!